Rice Rice Rice and More Rice…

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Cambodians eat a lot of rice! Rice for breakfast, lunch and dinner is the norm here and is a staple part of every families diet. Cambodia is home to extensive rice farms (our host mother actually owns one in the Bosleav country side which you can see below) in which farmers harvest their crops during the wet season months of May to October, after this the hot season in Cambodia is too dry to grow anything. Families buy rice in what us westerners would call a “wholesale” fashion and can sometimes get up to 100 sacks of rice delivered at one time, I thought it was funny when we had only 10 delivered by tractor!

Channa's Rice Farm

Needles to say I eat a lot of bloody rice! Thankfully I am a big fan of the sticky variety which is the only way it’s cooked over here and at 6 weeks in I’m still enjoying meal times without feeling fed up of the “same same” as the khmer would say. I am learning to say no to a second bowl of rice at the dinner table as I appear to be the only girl ever to travel to Asia and put on weight! Perhaps it’s the fact I am fed well at my host home or maybe it’s all the extra beetles and insects protein I eat accidentally whilst their crawling around in my food! I may be gaining a few pounds but I would never have the awesome experience of living with a Khmer family if I was travelling, the hilarious dinner time conversations where we understand each others jokes through hand gestures and very bad acting and the excitement on the kids faces when we bring home a can of soda.

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I haven’t yet got my head around eating rice for breakfast so always opt for sweet bread filled with bean curd in the mornings which I buy from a local bakery in Kratie town for a mere 25 cents. I often eat rice for lunch as it’s cheap and of course every night but I am suffering badly with the notorious south east asian infliction of “rice belly”, which plays havoc with your bowel movements and I’ve spent the most part of the trip feeling as though I’m swelling up from the inside! I try to buy watermelon most evenings to try and counteract it but for now i still look in the early stages of pregnancy. Heres to another 6 weeks!

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Life in Bosleav

At first the thought of being 17km from the town and the furthest away out of all the groups was a bit daunting but I have grown to love this little village right on the Mekong River. Bosleav stretches either side of a busy road which takes you in and out of Kratie, it rarely sleeps as motopods and trucks carrying goods pass through all night shaking the house, you can hear monks chanting through speakers and if you are standing in the corn fields at the Mekong sometimes you are lucky enough to hear their chanting from Koh Trong island across the way. It’s quite magical.

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I am living with my host mum, Channa, her 2 young sons and her sister. The house is not your typical Khmer house on stilts, it has a concrete base but everything is wooden upstairs and what you would normally expect from a Khmer home. Channa is a trained tailor so downstairs is full of sewing machines and I’ve even had chance to use them to alter some trousers I bought which is nice as I miss my sewing machine back home!

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They cook on a fire outside as most Khmer families do not have a kitchen with appliances, no kettles, no toasters, no fridges, no freezers, it’s simple and it works. We have a squat toilet inside which you flush with a pan and some water from a tank which comes from deep underground wells.

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Life in Bosleav is laid back but there is rarely a moment in the day or night that is quiet, the noise of the traffic transporting goods from Phnom Penh runs through the night and shakes my bedroom which in turn violently wakes me up in sheer panic as I fear a natural disaster is happening! It’s common for parties to take place and loud music akin to a genre that can only be described as Khmer Drum n Bass plays throughout the night and if it’s not music it’s monks chanting for hours on end which is aired on speakers throughout the village! I also inhabit my bedroom with various animals such as mice, geckos and flying bugs the size of a ping pong ball which peer into my mosquito net with their big black eyes and wiggle their rear ends (the worst of the 3!) so needless to say there is never a dull moment!

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We eat dinner downstairs and these meal times provide the most entertainment as the youngest son is extremely entertaining and it’s here that we practice our English and me my Khmer. It’s comforting for me as this wonderful family remind me so much of my own, the two boys similar in age difference to my own brothers and fight and play just as mine did when they were young. Channa has many characteristics of my own Mum; she’s funny, to the point and as she is a tailor our home is full of sewing machines which again reminds me of home as I grew up surrounded my fabric and sewing machines with my own Mum being a talented seamstress.

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The highlight of my time here so far has to be the day I was cycling home and saw a bucket outside every house in the village, when I got home I changed into some clean clothes, put my iphone in my pocket and went downstairs to see Channa motioning a kind of “swimming” hand action so I thought the boys were going down to the Mekong for a swim. I started to head out the house to where I saw 5 monks all chanting in their infamous orange robes, Channa pulled me down to kneeling position as we all placed our hands together I thought it was some kind of prayer until out of no where I was drowned in water! Again and again I was being drenched with water from the bucket, trying to rescue my iphone and wipe my glasses dry the monks began laughing and saying “barang, barang” (Khmer’s word for foreigner). I later found out this ritual brought good luck and happiness to all blessed with the water!

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Sunset view right outside my home

I am teaching children in the neighbourhood to speak english which is great, I have never taught before so I make most of lesson plans up as I go along and try to make them as interactive as possible in my make shift classroom which is our “family” area. Everyone in Cambodia wants to speak English so it’s a pleasure to teach children especially, who are so excited and motivated to learn. Every night a few more children turn up to class with their note books as news has spread fast that there is a Barang living in the neighbourhood, I think the class has grown from 3 to 20 in the last 2 weeks!

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Due to Bosleav being so far from the town, the people that live there use as much of their own and the locals produce as possible, right outside our home is a corn field, Channa owns a rice farm nearby and you have various sellers on motopod’s riding through the village with fruit and vegetables on their backs. Myself and my counterpart walk the 30 seconds next door to our neighbours home every night where they sell hundreds of watermelons and we spend a good 10 minutes deciding which is going to be the tastiest for dessert, a tough challenge with so much choice!

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A Dummy’s Guide to Packing for ICS Programme

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When it came to packing for my 3 month trip to Cambodia I didn’t really know where to start, although VSO had sent me some brief guidelines I was thinking things like; how many pairs of knickers do I pack?, Is 5 packs of paracetamol excessive?, Do I bring a jumper?, Will I really need antibacterial powder?!

I thought it would be a good idea to write a post for those of you ready to embark on your own 3 month adventure and having the nightmare I had when it came to packing! Please note I came to Cambodia at the coolest point in the year and also stayed in a host home with electricity so some things may differ depending on the country you are visiting but for the most part it should apply to all the countries ICS currently operates in.

Things I wish I had packed!

Head torch – My dad did buy me one but I forgot to pack it. We cycle a lot here and daylight turns into night very quickly, one minute it’s bright sunshine, the next it’s pitch black and getting caught on the busy roads without any light can be a bit scary! Can also double up as a handy night light when reading in bed.

Plain coloured smart trousers – When shopping for clothes I was thinking of how hot Cambodia would be and I would need really loose, baggy trousers but I was looking for summer clothes in winter! I struggled to find any and ended up buying only 2 pairs of trousers in the sales (both a size 14, I’m a 10!) which of course were huge on me and I just hated wearing them. I bought some patterned ‘hippy trousers’ from the night market in Phnom Penh which of course only tourists wear and all in all I just felt a bit silly. In a nutshell, make sure you pack clothes that you would be happy to wear at home and you quickly realise all those nice pattern tops you packed don’t look so good with your hippy trousers in the office and you have nothing else to wear!

Extension lead – If you have electricity in your host home it can be so handy as you can charge your laptop, have the light on and the fan all at once, hurrah! Thanks god for William Gilbert! ( I did manage to buy one in Phnom Penh for $7 but an expense from my allowance which could have been spared)

English books – It didn’t even cross my mind that I would be teaching English, at all. My counterpart has limited English so I teach him on a daily basis during conversation, which for adult’s, works best in my opinion but I didn’t expect 15 children to turn up at my host home the night I arrived with exercise books in hand ready for an english class! There was even a white board and brand new marker pen there waiting for me. You learn to think fast on ICS! Had I known I would have brought some basic English books with pictures to help me teach.

A suitcase – I hate to admit this one as my mum told me to take a big suitcase on wheels and I said no as everybody else was taking a 20 litre rucksack so there must be a reason as to why…there isn’t! My luggage weighed in at a mere 14kg when I had 20kg allowance….all the things I could have packed! Your luggage comes off the carousel straight into a bus or coach, which then drops you to a guesthouse, your luggage then gets put onto another bus when you depart from training, it then gets put into another guest house, then it goes back onto a bus (or tuk tuk in my case) straight into your host home where it stays. A suitcase on wheels would have been lighter to carry and much more convenient when you dont really want to unpack everything at the guest house to then re pack it all again when you depart in a couple of days.

More clothes – I figured if I packed too many clothes I wouldn’t wear them all but truth is 3 weeks in and i’m already bored of the same mundane, long sleeved tops I bought in every colour of the rainbow. Hmmmm what colour shall I wear today? Pastel blue, Sky blue, Navy blue or Duck egg Blue?

Jeans – It really depends on what time of year you are travelling but the majority of time you are in shade, whether that be at night time, the office, host home or in a cafe and when you’re not in shade you will seek it as the sun is fierce. So basically, if you wear jeans at home, you will wear jeans on your placement. They’re easy, they go with everything and if like me, you don’t pack any and end up in Asia, it’s likely you wont find any bigger than a UK size 6! Damn I wish I’d packed my MOM jeans, don’t make the same mistake!

Laundry bag – In what world did I not think to pack a foldable laundry bag??!! Enough said.

A blanket – sounds mad right? I said the same to my mum, I’m going to a hot country not the north pole. However I am in Cambodia in January/February and living right on the Mekong River, it’s the coolest time of year so temperature does drop at night and with the added strong wind from the Mekong I’ve woken up many a time trying to stretch the kiddy blanket over my shivering body.

More DEET spray – I know DEET is bad for you, I know 50% DEET is REALLY bad for you and I know this stuff is £10 a can but if like me you are prone to getting bitten and the only repellent you can buy in the local shop is 15% DEET, you will be wishing you hadn’t said no the sales assistant in ASDA who assured you it would only take 5minutes to grab you some more cans from the back!

Do Not Need to Pack

Lots of Toiletries – I packed lots and lots of mini shampoo and shower gels, carefully filling each one on my sitting room floor but reality is you don’t need to pack loads. It’s highly likely you are flying straight into your country’s capital and there will be so many shops to buy UK branded or cheap local toiletries in big sizes which is great as all that weight in your luggage can be replaced with things you do need! Do bring some empty mini bottles which you can buy from most pound shops and use these during your mid phase review week.

Thing’s I’m so glad I packed

My Converse – I hate sandals, it’s irrational but true. I just hate them. My feet get bitten, Cons go with everything, you can ride your bike better in trainers, all hail Chuck Taylor.

A travel towel – It’s light, it dries quickly, it folds up small.

Laptop – do not be fooled by anyone into thinking you should not take anything valuable therefore do not take a laptop! You WILL need your laptop to work on, you will want to have it in your room to listen to music or watch a film, you will want to go on wifi and complete research for you project. Bring a laptop and insure it!

iphone/smart phone – Again, depending on the country you visit but lots of developing countries have excellent internet connection, Cambodia being one of them. I live right out in a rural village in Bosleav and although I don’t get full 3G (I get E) it’s good enough for me to Whatsapp and Facebook my family and friends.

Lots of medication – I take long term medication for migraine so bit of a no brainer but if you are taking long term meds REMEMBER to get a prescription to cover you for the 3months well in advance as some pharmacies do not have enough all at once. I packed lot’s of painkillers, immodium, antihistamine, dioralyte and at 3 weeks in I have used them all at one stage or another. You will have dioreaha, you will have a head ache at some point, you will need to rehydrate your body. Yes you can probably maybe buy these things in shops if your lucky to be near a town but whatcha gonna do when your rolling on the floor with stomach cramps after a dodgy dinner and your miles from the nearest clinic? Just pack it all.

Lots of books – I packed 5 and it was a ball ache to carry them around in my ruck sack but I’m glad I did as there is no where here to access english books and they don’t have libraries.

A hoody – Following on from the blanket I can now only dream of, a hoody has brought me some solace in the mornings when it’s cold.

A travel pillow – probably the best thing I did pack, our travelling time to from Heathrow to Phnom Penh was 24 hours including lay over’s in airports and I don’t know what I would have done without that little companion. I have used it on bus journey’s and actually every night I have been here. It’s become a part of me, like an extension from my head. You get the picture, pack one!

Welcome to Kratie

Describing Kratie wouldn’t be complete until I tell you about the journey to the Province, it’s visually enticing and a roller coaster of a ride! I ran onto the bus thinking I had hit the jack pot when I bagged a back seat and promptly fell asleep but it wasn’t until we hit the first pot hole (of many) and I flew 5 foot in the air that I realised I was sat behind one of the back wheels, in which case I had chose the worst seat on a bus with no suspension…for 6 hours. Needless to say I stayed awake the entire journey as we sped past motopods carrying what appeared to be a tonne of goods, carts with 20 people piled on top and some breath taking views of the various province’s our Khmer team call home.

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As I arrived in Kratie a wave of calm rushed over me, we had left the hectic hustle and bustle of Phnom Penh and arrived just in time for sunset over the Mekong River, it was perfect. We stayed in the Heng Heng Guest house which provided us with an ideal location on the Mekong and also near the maze of a market which sells anything and everything from fresh fruit to novelty candles. Katie has a relaxed atmosphere and moves slower than the capital although the roads can still get very busy and you have to be so alert at all times, having witnessed a road traffic accident the first night I arrived there is no chance of me forgetting to look left and right.IMG_7093

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We spent our Sunday visiting the absolutely amazing Koh Trong Island which is a 2km stretch of sand in the middle of the Mekong which boasts an entire community and a beautiful pagoda. We boarded an old fishing boat which despite it’s age can hold people, bicycles and even moppeds as we soon found out!

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As we walked past every tree one of the Khmer volunteers announced ‘you can eat’ which basically means almost every tree grows something edible and for the most part exotic fruit like jack fruit, coconut, melon and the famous ‘pomollo’ which we were lucky enough to try when a local cut one fresh from his tree and peeled it for us. It looks like a giant green orange but each segment tastes like a sweet grapefruit, it’s so refreshing and Koh Trong grows the absolute best!

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Monday was spent meeting the Cambodian Rural Development Team (CRDT), the organisation we are working in partnership with and also our host families, we were formally introduced and then went for lunch all together in Heng Sim, which serves the best Khmer food I have tried yet!

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Unfortunately I wasn’t very well during my stay in Heng Heng so I waved my team mates off on Tuesday as they flew the nest to their new homes and I took a trip to the local doctor. This was an experience in itself as it is so far removed from what we consider clinical back in the UK: this was open air so all patients in their beds were visible to passers by and I left hoping I wouldn’t fall sick again!

Waving the team off!

Waving the team off!

By Wednesday I still wasn’t feeling great but I couldn’t wait any longer to get to my new home as the suspense was beginning to make me anxious as everyone else was settling in. I don’t know how I managed to fill an entire tuk tuk with my belongings as there are so many things i wish I had brought with me (I will mention those in another post) but I said goodbye to Heng Heng and set off on the 17km journey into the village of Bosleav…

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My First Week in Cambodia!

24 hours, 3 aircrafts, 3 countries and endless cat naps in various places brought us to the place we have all been anticipating for so long…Cambodia! I honestly don’t know where to start…it’s been 9 days since the little plane touched down in Phnom Penh airport and we bustled through the crowds, perching on staircases and bags to fill our visa forms out. I can’t believe it’s taken this long to write my first post but it’s been a whirlwind journey already and the programme has only just begun! Our first week was spent in the capital where we stayed in the Burly Guesthouse right in the heart of the hustle and bustle and only a short tuk tuk ride away from our training location, a gorgeous little restaurant who served us endless Cambodian treats everyday.

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Phnom Penh is a feast for the eyes (and the senses!) and you soon come to realise there are no rules on the roads here, our daily commute to work involved our tuk tuk driver pulling out into oncoming traffic just beeping his way through, risk assessments are pretty minimal here it’s dog eat dog! Every corner you turn there is street food of all varieties, mobile drinks fridges on scooters, fresh corn, various “exotic” meats, even puppies for sale – it’s a hybrid of chaos and you are on alert at all times as there is so much to take in. The markets are like a Labyrinth in which you weave your way through the sky high piles of just about everything and barter your way through till you find the way out!

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During the week we got to know the Khmer ICSE team really well and also had Khmer language classes which has been so helpful in communicating with market sellers and tuk tuk drivers, our teacher was awesome and so much fun – I learnt to count to 10 instantly and immediately remembered it (strange for me, hence the blog name!)

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Selfie Stick times with our Khmer teacher!

Friday we had a free afternoon so visited the notorious S-21 prison which was both moving and over whelming, made more so by the fact we were with the Khmer team who were kindly explaining some of the events that happened there. Once a school, this prison was made to torture and essentially starve people to death during the Khmer Rouge Movement, so severe was this prison that only 7 people are known to have survived out of the estimated 20, 000 people who were detained here. You don’t really realise the severity of the movement until you drive through some of the neighbourhoods which have never recovered from Pol Pot’s reign; against the backdrop of a brand new shopping mall it’s quite a distressing juxtaposition to take in.

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After this we all visited the Royal Palace which picked up the mood of the whole team, it’s absolutely beautiful and well worth the visit.

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After our week of training we said goodbye to Burly, picked up our fresh laundry from the laundrette and headed off on another journey to Kratie…